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Projector in large room with white walls

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Hi

I am projecting onto a large white wall. The wall is freshly painted white and almost 213" diagonally. The entire room is roughly 20 feet by 20 feet and freshly painted white.
I'm using the projector at night only for watching movies and the room is almost fully darkened with curtains.

I am deciding between three projectors: the BenQ W1070, W1070+, W1080ST and W1080ST+.

I have two questions:

1. Would the W1080 with its much shorter throw have any advantage in terms of maintaining the contrast in the image? I supposed if the projector is placed closer to the wall, the amount of light bouncing around is also much less?

2. The difference between the regular and + models is that they have 200 more lumens. I calculated that with the W1070 and W1080ST, I'm getting 13 foot lambert. With the +versions, I'm getting 15 foot lambert. Is the 2 foot lambert significant enough for the viewing experience or will the 13 foot lambert be sufficient enough?

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions

7.2.4 Home Theater Build

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Hi all, been a lurker for quite some time but recently started my home theater build. I'll post pictures throughout the process. In the meantime, here's a list of what I'll be using:

Sony 295ES
106" Silver Ticket Screen
Marantz 7705
Marantz 8077
Marantz 7055
Furman Elite 20 pfi
SVS SB12 subwoofers
Revel F206 main speakers
Revel C205 center channel speaker
Revel W873 wall speakers
Revel C263 LP ceiling speakers
Sanus CFR2136 AV Rack
Apple Fire TV
Ceiling Panels Direct Starlite Ceiling Panels
Govee LED strip lights

Can't wait to fire everything up!

Going back to stereo for home theater - WHY?

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Hi all,
I don't know if this is the right place to put this, but its where I think I will find the most balanced opinions from those that have been the whole hog, and maybe, back again.

I have some some people online on various forums, youtube, and other places, that have gone from dedicated home theater rooms with atmos 4k blah blah blah, and after some serious personal thought and apparant soul searching, decide to cut right back to just a TV and stereo speakers! Now personally, I don't understand why anyone would do this. Perhaps that's just because I am in the middle of the upgraditus whirlwind, maybe I'm just ignorant, I'm not sure. Maybe one day I will understand? :confused:

Some call it simplifying, others just lose interest in the hobby and want to reclaim their space back, others have been 'forced' into it to maintain certain relationships in their life. I get those reasons, but hey, I just want to understand it a bit more when someone 'simplifies' by choice. Why?

If that's you, or someone you have known or observed, I want to hear about it. I want to hear your opinions. Help me understand...WHY!? :(

FROM THIS


TO THIS - WHAT???


EDIT: The pics above area bit of an extreme exaggeration, but you get the point of my question.

Need advice on projector and screen size (see photos)

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Hi, I am planning to build a dedicated HT room in the basement which has no windows so pitch dark if entrance door is closed. I am thinking about 120" and based projector throw requirements, it seems my only choice is to go with ultra short-throw laser projectors.

Please review included photos and I have following questions:
1) Given the 12ft viewing distance, having 120" screen an optimal size?
2) If speaker wiring becomes a challenge through walls, is Bluetooth based L/R/C speakers a good option?
3) Should I get two or one subwoofers?
4) Is repainting the walls to darker color worth it?
5) Is it a good idea to 2nd row seating on the front of sofa and risers for the back given the size of the room?
6) Any lighting suggestions to re-purpose current BR30 recessed lights?
7) Any suggestions on projector? Usage is 50-50% gaming/movies and my budget is up to $5K and I debating between new LGU85LA, VAVA 4K, and Optoma P1
8) I already have BIC America PL-76, PL-200 sub speakers that are 6 years old. Is it worth upgrading them?

Anything else you suggest to make this home theater room great...

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I'd like information on subwoofer power and I'd like subwoofer recommendations

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I'm considering buying a subwoofer. In this previous post, I didn't ask what my power requirements are in order to fill my room, so I'm asking now. What I think I really need to know is, how much subwoofer power is required to obtain output at a certain perceived loudness level in a room of a certain size?

What I think I need more than recommendations for individual subwoofer models, is what specifications should I look for, and how do I find subwoofers with those specifications.

I'm also going to go through the questions mentioned by one of the stickied threads as questions that people asking for subwoofer recommendations should answer.

Primary uses: I think that the choice of a 'music' sub over a 'home theater' sub (or vice-versa) is a false choice. Ideally, I want a high-quality sub that is great for everything: TV shows, movies, games, and music of all genres.

The volume at which I listen to content: first, a little background information. I set the volume level display option on my AVR to "relative". My source for TV shows, movies, and games is my Xbox One S, and it only allows bitstream passthrough for its Blu-ray player app, so my listening volume changes across apps due to my Xbox's inability to output a constant volume across sources, due to the lack of bitstream passthrough for most apps. However, so that I can give you a numerical value for volume, and since the Blu-ray player app has bitstream passthrough support, I popped my Gravity 3D Blu-ray (which has a dialog norm value of +4) into my Xbox, went to the dialog-heavy part at the beginning (prior to the action), and increased the volume until the dialog got to a comfortable level. It got to -18.0 dB. I watched the whole movie, and the volume seemed about right. Then, I ejected Gravity and inserted Top Gun 3D, watched it, and throughout the movie, I gradually increased the volume to - 17dB. It was a bit too loud during the battle scene, but I guess it was a good volume for the quieter scenes. Obviously, different content might sound best at different volume levels. Why am I mentioning all of this? Because I'm wondering about a subwoofer or subwoofers that will match the volume of my main speakers, all the way down to 20 Hz.

To add to that, I wish I could get accurate reproduction and equal loudness of ultra-low frequencies (< 20 Hz). That might be too unrealistic, so it is not mandatory. To be honest, I haven't experienced frequencies below 20 Hz at appreciable volumes, so I don't know what I'm missing and whether it's worth it.

Room size and layout: my home theater system is in a room that serves as a home theater room as well as a bedroom. I've attached a crude drawing of my room's layout. You'll see that there's only one chair, and that's because usually I'm the only one watching. Occasionally, however, I'll move this chair to the left in order to make room for another chair or two, which I can bring in from another room, so that I can watch things with my mom and/or with other family members when they come over.

My budget: I don't have a set-in-stone budget. I want to know what my options are before I decide how much I'm comfortable spending.

Subwoofer enclosure size limits: I don't have a set-in-stone size limit. I want to know what my subwoofer options are.

How soon I want to have a subwoofer or subwoofers: I am interested in buying a subwoofer or subwoofers, but I'm not in a hurry.

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Klipsch R-10SW

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I noticed that my Klipsch R-10SW subwoofer is making a noise known as chuffing.

Does anyone know if this is common in this model?

Any indication of subwoofer in this price range?

Thanks

High voltage on HDMI connector

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Let me know if this is the right section to post. I am new to the forums.

So I had an electrician come over and measure few things in the house because my LG OLED TV has suddenly broken (green line showing in middle of screen when turning on and then it turns itself off). The only thing that he found to be out of order was a measurement of 40 volt on the metal connector of the HDMI cable going from my Nintendo Switch to the TV. Is this a normal reading? And if not is this voltage something that could have fried something in the TV?

$2000 Budget Home Theater Build

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So... recently a friend of mine was utterly amazed when she heard my home system and decided to upgrade her own home audio. I was tasked with finding her the best possible sound under a budget of $2000. Her current source of sound is an LG Oled panel, 75" i think. She does not want projection since it is a shared living space/media room. It is a massive space, around 20x20 which opens to the rest of the house through corridors.

So far i got the JBL Stage A190 pair for $648 with a JBL Coupon
and an Onkyo TX-NR777 for $349 from A4L
Which leaves me about $1000 to work with for a sub or subs. Which sub would be ideal in this case?
Also any of those two above mentioned items can be returned for something else since i ordered it this weekend.

Can a "World-Wide Use" or "Region Free" play both US and EU disks?

Diy full painted wall guidance.

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Basement remodeling is coming along, I am at the drywall stage so still lots of time.

I want to spray ( silver fire )
150 " 16 / 9

Projector epson 5050/6050
Full light control room
Walls -celing - floors dark . Black cloth put in places that is needed.

- What version of silver fire should I use.
Is 1.3 gain ok for this project

- is black flame better ?

-should I do this on drywall, if so how do I prep the wall.

-is Carl flex wire screen a better place to start.

Speaker selection for best dialog

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14x14x9 room & MLP 10' from cc, old ears, damaged hearing (tinnitis), 5.2.2 system, Yamaha RX-A660 (Aventage, 80 wpc), 75% TV/movies, 25% soft
rock, clear dialog is top priority. Don't listen loud (-30 on AVR). Currently using Elac Debut B5.2 and C5.2 for L/R & cc, consider them good on music
and ok on dialog but would like an upgrade. Since dialog is primary focus, looking at center channel and matching L/R. Budget around $2k.
Consider 3-way Ascend Horizon w/Raal one of best cc speakers available but height is too high for my application (8" max).
Evaluating (bs, cc): 1) Ascend Luna + Duo, 2) SVS Ultra, 3) Elac Uni-Fi, and 4) Klipsch RP (500 series). Each option brings a different
technology solution to my problem. Willing to upgrade avr (i.e. Elac Uni-Fi) but would rather do this later as the next step of improvement after speakers.
Appreciate any input or experience about these selections.

Cant get 1080i to display. Ws-55315 Mitsubishi

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I have a Mitsubishi ws-55315 from 2004. I used to be able to sync and mirror the display from my chromebook laptop to the tv via hdmi to dvi-d adapter...in 1080i resolution with no issues. Now the only clear resolution I can get is 480i...which still doesn't look right. I've tried a couple different sources such as my blue ray player..a hdmi to component converter and my computer...and the tv wont switch to 1080i. The picture is just all distorted and wavy and flickering except for 480i. Both component inputs and dvi-d input are doing this. With the blue ray player I'll set the output resolution using yellow video output to either 480p or 1080i...and when I connect either digital signal from it it to dvi or component input on the tv...I just get the crazy distorted blur. Is there a chip of fuse in the tv that could have gone bad possibly? Any advice would be greatly appreciated...thanks

Cant get 1080i to display. Ws-55315 mitsubishi

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I have a Mitsubishi ws-55315 from 2004. I used to be able to sync and mirror the display from my chromebook laptop to the tv via hdmi to dvi-d adapter...in 1080i resolution with no issues. Now the only clear resolution I can get is 480i...which still doesn't look right. I've tried a couple different sources such as my blue ray player..a hdmi to component converter and my computer...and the tv wont switch to 1080i. The picture is just all distorted and wavy and flickering except for 480i. Both component inputs and dvi-d input are doing this. With the blue ray player I'll set the output resolution using yellow video output to either 480p or 1080i...and when I connect either digital signal from it it to dvi or component input on the tv...I just get the crazy distorted blur. Is there a chip of fuse in the tv that could have gone bad possibly? Any advice would be greatly appreciated...thanks

Question about floor standing

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I currently have a paradigm center and pioneer AJ FS52 floor with paradigm ADP bipole surround. I have a chance to get Deftech BP10B locally wondering how they sound and would it be advisable to pair them.with the paradigm center ..I heard about matching center and floors but my pioneer sounded fine with the paradigm center so wanted to see if anyone had something similar to this

Help adding ATMOS surrounds for old Energy RC-70 and LCR

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Have a new extension I'm building off my family room and am going to re-purpose my current Energy RC-70 reference connoisseur tower speakers and LCR from another room, and add surround speakers for a 5.1.4 ATMOS setup.

Unfortunately the Energy speakers I have are quite old now, prior to when they sold. The subwoofer I have is from SVS.

I know for ATMOS you want timber matched speakers, but in this case I gotta find the best I can to work with the RC-70's. Will upgrade my main to one of the newer Yamaha's (maybe RX-A1080 or RX-V2085), so maybe with the eq settings I can get them close.

Been a very long time since being in the know of speaker, so any help is appreciated! Looking at speakercraft LCR5's as seems they have a good selection for using in a ATMOS setup, but not sure how they compare to paradigm or martins, etc and if will even come close to working with the Energy RC-70's.

Connectivity Options for Home Office Wall-mount TV, old construction

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Quick question for the group: I'm planning to remove a door and build out the opening to support a flat panel TV in my office, which is one floor above my home theater system. Ideally, I'd like to run an HDMI cable to the receiver to connect to all the video sources there (about a 30' run, which I've done before to my projector). I primarily want to watch cable news, so I'd also wire up an IR repeater, like Dinky Link. The catch (of course) is that running these cables will require a lot of drywall cutouts and drilling through two firestops. From what I've caught up on in AVS threads, is that non-line-of-sight wireless options are not very reliable yet. Is that true? Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Testing Thread - Staging Please Ignore

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The letter s, both capital and lower case versions, are being replaced with the numeric code value on Topify - FIXED

How to mount speakers on Owens Basement wall

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I imagine this has to have been asked and answered, but I'm having no luck with a search:

Basement in the home I'm in has a recently installed Owens Corning system. Question I'm looking for is how to mount speakers on the wall for these systems. That I can't find a YouTube video on it is . . . troubling.

Anyone here have experience in these quarters?

Thanks,
Jim

WTB Epson Home Cinema 4000

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Looking for one with minimal usage, and by far a better price then im seeing. They are $999 with 2 year warrant from their clearance center. Note: Epsons warranty is NOT transferable, so your PJ has no warranty to provide to new owner.. Located 15301

Optoma Announces Three New Projectors: GT1090HDR, HZ39HDR & HD28HDR

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Full press release:

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Fremont, Calif., March 2, 2020 - Optoma, the No. 1 Top-Selling Home Theater Projector Brand in Retail,* today unveiled three new projectors designed to deliver fast-action gaming and live action entertainment to living rooms and home theaters. The GT1090HDR and HZ39HDR, Optoma’s first laser gaming and entertainment projectors, offer a full HD 1080p image, cinema-quality projection, exceptional brightness and brilliant colors - effectively transporting both gamers and movie-viewers to different worlds.

Compact, Flexible Game Time Companion: Optoma GT1090HDR

With an incredible 4,200 lumens, 300,000:1 contrast ratio and 0.50:1 short throw ratio, the compact, high brightness Optoma GT1090HDR brings cinematic experiences to space-constrained environments. Offering powerful 4K input, HDR10 and Hybrid-Log Gamma (HLG) color compatibility, the GT1090HDR produces rich lifelike color and amazing contrast for truly immersive experiences. A DuraCore laser light source ensures up to 30,000 hours of maintenance-free operation in Eco mode, and built-in auto keystone and four corner correction provide flexible image adjustments for easy installation. Featuring a variety of connectivity options, including HDMI 2.0 and VGA, along with a built-in 10-watt speaker, the GT1090HDR easily connects to a variety of gaming consoles, media players and additional entertainment sources.

Action-Packed, Big Screen Gaming: Optoma HZ39HDR

The Optoma HZ39HDR brings games, live action sports and movies to life in a massive 300-inch, full HD 1080p image. With 4,000 lumens and a 300,000:1 contrast ratio, as well as 4K input compatibility and Rec. 709 color coverage, the HZ39HDR delivers stunning image performance with detailed, crisp visuals. Designed with a compact form factor, built-in vertical keystone correction and a 1.3x optical zoom, the HZ39HDR delivers flexible installation options.

Optoma GT1090HDR and HZ39HDR additional specifications:

● Dimensions: 13.26” x 4.8” x 10.5”

● Resolution: 1080p (1920 x 1080)

● Brightness: GT1090HDR: 4,200 lumens; HZ39HDR: 4,000 lumens

● Contrast Ratio: 300,000:1 with Extreme Black enabled

● 4K UHD input with HDMI 2.0

● Light Source: DuraCore Laser

● Light Source Life: Up to 30,000 hours of operation in Eco mode

● Audio: 2 x 10W speakers

● Blu-Ray 3D support

● Enhanced Gaming Mode - 16ms at 1080p 60Hz & 8ms at 1080p 120Hz (Firmware update available early Q2)

“Optoma’s market leadership in the consumer home theater sector is largely due to its ability to design projectors that leverage the latest innovations and technologies to deliver the high quality entertainment experiences consumers are seeking,” said Maria Repole, head of marketing, Optoma Technology, Inc. “As our first laser gaming projectors, the Optoma GT1090HDR and Optoma HZ39HDR raise the bar on projection and gaming performance, providing users with best in class picture quality and gaming action.”

Big Screen Cinematic and Gaming Experiences: Optoma HD28HDR

Optoma also announced today the bright 3,600 lumen 1080p Optoma HD28HDR, designed to produce stunning cinematic and gaming experiences with outstanding color and contrast. The Optoma HD28HDR features a built-in Enhanced Gaming Mode that supports up to a 120Hz refresh rate and an ultra fast 8.4ms response time for fast-paced gaming, as well as an integrated Game Display Mode that boosts shadows and dark scenes for greater visibility of impending obstacles. The Optoma HD28HDR also offers an HDMI 2.0 input with HDCP 2.2 connectivity for compatibility with 4K UHD and HDR video sources, and HDMI-link support ensures easy control of the projector and connected devices with a single remote.

Availability and Pricing:

● The Optoma GT1090HDR is available for purchase now through Optoma authorized dealers for an estimated street price of $1,399.

● The Optoma HZ39HDR is available for purchase now through Optoma authorized dealers for an estimated street price of $1,199.

● The Optoma HD28HDR is available for purchase now through Optoma authorized dealers for an estimated street price of $649.
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